Florida Vegetable Planting Guide

This guide provides information on when to start seeds inside, direct seed, and transplant starter plants in the different regions of Florida.

North USDA Planting Zones: 8b–9a
Central USDA Planting Zones: 9b & some of 10a
South USDA Planting Zones: 10a–11b

Visit the U.S. National Arboretum for an exact USDA Planting Zone Map.

Getting Started

Start Seeds Inside:
Garlic is almost always grown from individual cloves rather than true seed. Starting garlic from seed indoors is not recommended because it is slow, inconsistent, and takes much longer to reach harvest than planting cloves.

Direct Seed (Planting Cloves):
Planting cloves directly into the garden during the cooler months helps them establish strong roots before warm weather. That cool growing window is important for forming full-sized bulbs later.

Transplant Starter Plants (Pre-sprouted Cloves):
If you pre-sprout cloves in trays, transplant once roots and green tips form. This can improve establishment and spacing control, especially if your beds are actively in use.

For Florida Zone 9, softneck types are usually the most reliable bulb producers. Hardneck varieties can still work, but choose proven types and focus on timing and consistent moisture.

Soil, Sun, Water, and Spacing

Soil:
Garlic prefers well-drained, fertile soil with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. Improve beds with compost before planting. Avoid soils that stay soggy after rain—bulbs can rot.

Sun:
Full sun supports strong leaf growth and larger bulbs. Aim for 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily.

Watering:
Keep soil evenly moist during active growth and bulbing. Reduce watering as tops yellow and dry down before harvest to support curing and reduce rot risk.

Spacing:
Plant cloves 4–6 inches apart, 2 inches deep, pointed end up. Space rows 12–18 inches apart.

Harvesting and Additional Tips

Harvesting:
Garlic is usually ready about 8–9 months after planting (variety and weather dependent). Harvest when the bottom leaves are brown/dry but the top leaves are still mostly green. Loosen soil with a fork and lift bulbs—do not pull by the stalk. Cure in a dry, shaded, well-ventilated area for several weeks.

Additional Tips:

• Mulch helps stabilize moisture and reduces weeds during the long grow-out.
• Stop heavy watering as plants begin to yellow to reduce rot and improve curing.
• Handle bulbs gently—bruising shortens storage life.
• Store cured bulbs in a cool, dry place with airflow (avoid sealed plastic).

Fertilization, Care, and Common Problems

Fertilization (N–P–K Ratio):
Garlic benefits from steady nitrogen early to build leaf mass (which drives bulb size), then lighter feeding as bulbing begins. Common options include 10-10-10 or a nitrogen-forward blend like 12-0-0, paired with compost.

When to Add:
Before Planting: Mix compost and a balanced fertilizer into the bed.
Early Spring: Side-dress as growth accelerates to support leaf development.
Mid-Growing Season: If needed, apply a light nitrogen boost before bulbing; avoid heavy feeding late.

Application Tips:

• Follow the directions on the fertilizer package to avoid over-fertilization and root burn.
• Apply around plants (not against the stem) and water in.
• Compost + mulch improves nutrient availability and soil structure over the season.

Pests and Diseases in Florida:

• Aphids: Sap-feeders that can weaken plants and spread disease.
• Onion Maggots: Larvae feeding on roots/bulbs; can cause collapse.
• Thrips: Silvery leaf streaking and reduced vigor.
• White Rot: White fungal growth on roots/bulbs leading to decay.
• Rust: Orange pustules on leaves that reduce photosynthesis.

Blog post on Natural Fertilizers

Natural Pest Control

Companion Plants and Plants to Avoid

Companion Plants:

Plants to Avoid Nearby: