Getting Started

Start Seeds Inside:
Garlic is almost always grown from individual cloves rather than true seed. Starting garlic from seed indoors is not recommended because it is a long, complicated process and slower to reach harvest than simply planting cloves.

Direct Seed (Planting Cloves):
Directly planting garlic cloves into the garden during the cooler months lets them establish strong roots before warmer weather arrives. This cool period is essential for proper bulb formation later in the season.

Transplant Starter Plants (Pre-sprouted Cloves):
Some gardeners start cloves in trays or small pots and then transplant them once roots and shoots have formed. This approach ensures a strong root system and helps young plants handle fluctuating outdoor temperatures more easily.

Both softneck and hardneck garlic can perform well in Florida when planted at the right time. Choose varieties suited to your zone and give them a long, cool growing period for the best bulb size and storage quality.

Soil, Sun, Water, and Spacing

Soil:
Garlic prefers well-drained, fertile soil with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. Amend beds with compost or well-rotted manure to improve fertility and structure. Avoid heavy, poorly drained soils that stay wet after rains, as this can lead to bulb rot.

Sun:
Full sun is essential for strong growth and good bulb development. Aim for at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily to help garlic produce large, healthy bulbs.

Watering:
Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged. Water regularly during dry periods, especially as bulbs begin to form in late spring. Reduce watering as the tops start to yellow and dry down before harvest to help bulbs cure in the soil.

Spacing:
Plant individual cloves 4–6 inches apart in rows spaced 12–18 inches apart. Set cloves pointed end up, about 2 inches deep. This spacing allows good air circulation, reduces disease pressure, and gives each plant room to size up.

Fertilization, Care, and Common Problems

Fertilization (N–P–K Ratio):
Garlic benefits from a balanced fertilizer with slightly higher nitrogen to support leafy growth, such as 10-10-10 or a nitrogen-rich option like 12-0-0, combined with plenty of organic matter.

When to Add:
Before Planting: Work a balanced fertilizer into the soil before planting cloves to promote strong initial root and leaf growth.
Early Spring: Reapply fertilizer as new green growth takes off to support continued leafy growth and future bulb development.
Mid-Growing Season: If plants appear pale or growth slows, a light side-dressing of nitrogen in late spring can help, but avoid heavy feeding late in the season.

Application Tips:

• Always follow the directions on the fertilizer package to avoid over-fertilization and root burn.
• Apply fertilizer in a band around the plants and water thoroughly so nutrients move into the root zone.
• Combine fertilizer with compost or well-rotted manure to feed both the plants and the soil biology.

Additional Tips:

• Garlic grows best in soil rich in organic matter—add compost before planting and between rows as a top-dress.
• Mulch around plants to help retain moisture, regulate soil temperature, and suppress weeds.
• Ensure consistent moisture, especially during the bulbing phase, to prevent stress and promote even bulb development.

Harvesting:
Both softneck and hardneck garlic are typically ready to harvest about 8–9 months after planting. Harvest when the bottom leaves have turned brown and dry while the top leaves are still green. Loosen the soil around the bulbs with a garden fork and carefully lift them out instead of pulling by the tops. Cure bulbs in a warm, dry, shaded, and well-ventilated area for several weeks before trimming and storing.

Pests and Diseases in Florida:

• Aphids: Small insects that suck sap from leaves and stems, causing curling and yellowing and potentially transmitting diseases.
• Onion Maggots: Larvae that feed on roots and bulbs, leading to wilting, poor growth, and plant death.
• Thrips: Tiny insects that feed on leaves, causing silvery streaks, reduced vigor, and increased susceptibility to disease.
• White Rot: A fungal disease that creates white, fluffy growth on roots and bulbs, eventually causing decay.
• Rust: Fungal disease that produces orange or rust-colored pustules on leaves, reducing photosynthesis and weakening plants.

Blog post on Natural Fertilizers

Natural Pest Control

Companion Plants and Plants to Avoid

Companion Plants:

Plants to Avoid Nearby: