October Guild Challenge

Food ForestFlorida GardeningGuildsMonthly Challenge
Written By Donald Richardson

Designed for Ocala, Florida planting zone 9 but with a little more research in weather and climate conditions these guilds can be adapted to other areas. Always research what works best in your area. 

Each month I will be putting out a new challenge. This challenge is very helpful if you are working with a small budget or want to add to an existing permaculture layout.

Build one perennial-first guild this month 

October is prime time in Central Florida’s Zone 9: warm soil + cooler nights = strong root growth for woody perennials. Below are three ready-to-use “guild recipes.” Pick one that matches your sun, moisture, and soil, arrange the layers as shown, and you’ve met the month’s challenge. 

 

Legend (tags you’ll see below) 

  • Florida Native / Florida-Friendly 

  • P = Perennial  A = Annual (cool-season where relevant) 

  • N-fixer = adds nitrogen  DA = dynamic accumulator (pulls nutrients up) 

  • Orientation cues assume top = cold/wind side (often N/NW) 

 

Quick Site-Reading (use this to pick the right recipe) 

  • Sun: Full (>6h), Part (3–6h), Dappled. 

  • Moisture: Dry, Average, Occasionally wet. 

  • Drainage: Free-draining vs heavy/compacted (add organic matter; use DA roots like daikon). 

  • Wind/frost: Put evergreens on the windward/cold side; avoid low frost pockets. 

  • Soil reaction: If you want blueberries, create/choose an acidic island (pine mulch, bark fines). 

  • Access & wildlife: Leave harvest paths; use small guards where critters are persistent. 

 Guild Recipe A (Full sun): Loquat Anchor Ring 

Best fit: Full sun, average to slightly dry soil, good fall planting window. 
Circle size: 10–12 ft diameter (scale up/down to fit). 
Anchor (P, Florida-Friendly): Loquat (Eriobotrya japonica, Zone 8b–11). Tough, drought-tolerant once established; flowers late fall/winter, fruit late winter–spring. 

Arrangement (top = wind side) 

  • Wind filter (P, Florida Native): Yaupon holly (Ilex vomitoria) 5–6 ft north/NW of trunk (keeps winter winds off). 

  • Shrub layer (P, Florida Native): Beautyberry (Callicarpa americana) on east & west arcs, ~4 ft from trunk. 

  • Groundcover (A in FL): Strawberries (short-day types) 12–18" apart through the ring. 

  • DA root (A): Daikon radish pockets between shrubs to open soil. 

Loquat Anchor Ring Full sun • 10–12 ft circle • Perennial-first with cool-season helpers Loquat Yaupon holly (screen) Beautyberry Beautyberry Rosemary Rosemary Garlic chives Strawberries Strawberries Clover (broadcast) Clover (broadcast) Daikon pockets N S E W N (wind/cold side) Place evergreen screen on the windward (N/NW) side. Shrubs on E/W arcs ~4 ft from trunk. Aromatic herbs in the sunny south arc. Broadcast clover into mulch; tuck daikon between shrubs to open soil. Legend Anchor (P) Shrub/Screen (P) Herb (P) Groundcover (A) N-fixer / DA (A)

Plant List:

  • Yaupon holly — Florida Native, P | Benefits: wind buffer, wildlife; Use: windward side. 

  • Beautyberry — Florida Native, P | Benefits: pollinators/birds, light dapple; Use: E/W arcs. 

  • Rosemary — P | Benefits: aromatic pest confusion, culinary; Use: sunny south arc. 

  • Garlic chives — P | Benefits: mild pest pressure, edible; Use: clumps by paths/edges. 

  • Strawberries — A (cool season) | Benefits: living mulch + fruit; Use: fill gaps around ring. 

  • Clover (N-fixer) — A (cool season) | Benefits: N supply, nectar; Use: broadcast under all. 

  • Daikon (DA) — A | Benefits: bio-tillage; Use: pockets between shrubs, later chop-and-drop. 

Native-only swap ideas: 

• Loquat → Native-only anchor alternatives 

Loquat isn’t native, so choose one of these native anchors and keep the ring layout. 

Anchor options (P): 

  • American persimmon (Diospyros virginiana) – tough, delicious fruit 

  • Chickasaw plum (Prunus angustifolia) – early bloom, wildlife favorite 

  • Flatwoods plum (Prunus umbellata) – compact form 

  • Red mulberry (Morus rubra) – shady-tolerant, heavy wildlife value 

  • Simpson’s stopper (Myrcianthes fragrans) – evergreen, edible berries 

Wind / screen (P): 

  • Yaupon holly (Ilex vomitoria) 

  • Wax myrtle (Morella cerifera) 

  • Simpson’s stopper (Myrcianthes fragrans) 

Shrub / pollinator layer (P): 

  • Walter’s viburnum (Viburnum obovatum) 

Aromatic / “herb” layer (P/A): 

  • Wild yarrow (Achillea millefolium, FL ecotypes) 

Groundcover (P): 

  • Twinflower (Dyschoriste oblongifolia) – tough, low mat 

N-fixers (A/P): 

  • Partridge pea (Chamaecrista fasciculata) – warm-season 

Dynamic accumulators (A): 

  • Evening primrose (Oenothera biennis) 

  • American wild carrot (Daucus pusillus) 

 Guild Recipe B (Part sun / Acidic island): Blueberry Triangle 

Best fit: Part–full to full sun; blueberry-friendly acidic “island” (pine needles/bark).
Triangle size: 6–7 ft between bushes.
Anchor (P): Three Blueberries (same variety or compatible pollination partners).
Acid-island recipe (quick): 60–70% pine bark fines + 20–30% coarse peat or leaf mold + 10% sand; top with pine needles. 

Arrangement

  • Anchors (P): One blueberry at the top, two at lower corners; keep a deep pine mulch disk.

  • Edge annuals (A): Calendula + Cilantro along the sunny lower edge for pollinators and light edible yield.

  • N-fixer (A): Crimson clover as a narrow outer rim band (12–18" wide). Keep it outside the triangle to avoid root competition at crowns.

  • Management: Broadcast clover seed now; mow/chop after bloom before seed set to prevent heavy reseeding. Keep alkaline inputs off the island; refresh pine mulch as needed.

Blueberry Triangle Part–full sun • Acidic island • 6–7 ft triangle • Pine mulch Crimson clover (outer rim) Blueberry Blueberry Blueberry Calendula / Cilantro ring N S E W N (wind/cold side) Keep a deep pine needle/bark mulch disk. Edge with calendula and cilantro for pollinators. Keep crimson clover ONLY on the outer rim (12–18" band) to avoid tangling and root competition; chop after bloom before seed set. Legend Anchor shrub (P) Edge annuals (A) Outer rim band (A)

Plant List:

  • Blueberry (cluster) — P, Florida-Friendly | Benefits: fruit, wildlife; Use: anchor triangle, acidic mulch. 

  • Calendula — A | Benefits: pollinators, mild pest distraction; Use: outer ring. 

  • Cilantro — A (cool season) | Benefits: beneficial insect draw; Use: interplant at edges. 

Native-only swap ideas: 

• Blueberry (anchor is already native-derived) 

Your southern highbush/rabbiteye types are from native FL/Southeast species. If you want strictly native species: 

Anchor options (P): 

  • Darrow’s blueberry (Vaccinium darrowii) – FL native, evergreen 

  • Rabbiteye blueberry (Vaccinium virgatum) – SE native (works in Ocala) 

  • Highbush blueberry FL ecotypes (Vaccinium corymbosum sensu lato) 

Wind / edge shelter (P): 

  • Yaupon holly, Wax myrtle, or Simpson’s stopper (kept outside the acid island) 

Pollinator shrubs (P): 

Aromatic / flower layer (P/A): 

Groundcover (P): (outside the crown zone; avoid raising pH) 

N-fixers (A/P): 

  • Partridge pea (warm season) 

Dynamic accumulators (A): 

  • Evening primrose, American wild carrot 

 Guild Recipe C (Full sun, well-drained): Pomegranate Pocket 

Best fit: Full sun, free-draining to slightly dry soils; appreciates fall establishment. 
Circle size: ~10 ft diameter. 
Anchor (P, Florida-Friendly): Pomegranate (Punica granatum, Zone 8–11). 

Arrangement 

  • Windward shrub (P, Florida Native): Simpson’s stopper (Myrcianthes fragrans) just outside the north/NW dripline to slow cold winter wind. 

  • Herb matrix (P): Oregano + Thyme clustered in the south arc. 

  • Ground layer (A→spring chop): Clover mix broadcast now; chop-and-drop before summer. 

  • Trap crop/edible (A): Nasturtium at the drip line (aphid magnet; leaves/flowers edible). 

Pomegranate Pocket Full sun • Free-draining • ~10 ft circle • Fall establishment Pomegranate Simpson’s stopper (screen) Thyme cluster Thyme cluster Clover / Nasturtium N S E W N (wind/cold side) Place evergreen screen on the windward (N/NW) side. Shrubs on E/W arcs ~4 ft from trunk. Aromatic herbs in the sunny south arc. Broadcast clover into mulch; tuck daikon between shrubs to open soil. Legend Anchor (P) Evergreen screen (P) Herb matrix (P) Ground layer (A)

Plant List:

  • Simpson’s stopper — Florida Native, P | Benefits: wind filter, pollinators; Use: windward edge. 

  • Oregano / Thyme — P | Benefits: aromatic pest confusion, culinary; Use: warm south arc. 

  • Clover (N-fixer) — A (cool season) | Benefits: nitrogen, living mulch; Use: broadcast. 

  • Nasturtium — A | Benefits: trap crop, edible; Use: tucked at drip line. 

  • Daikon (DA) — A | Benefits: bio-tillage; Use: pockets between shrubs, later chop-and-drop. 

Native-only swap ideas: 

• Pomegranate → Native-only anchor alternatives 

Pomegranate isn’t native; swap in a native fruiting/evergreen anchor and keep the “pocket” layout. 

Anchor options (P): 

  • American persimmon (Diospyros virginiana) 

  • Chickasaw plum (Prunus angustifolia) or Flatwoods plum (P. umbellata) 

  • Red mulberry (Morus rubra) 

  • Simpson’s stopper (Myrcianthes fragrans) – evergreen with edible berries 

Wind / screen (P): 

  • Yaupon holly, Wax myrtle, Simpson’s stopper 

Herb / aromatic matrix (P/A): 

  • Blue curls / scarlet calamint (Calamintha coccinea) 

Ground layer (P): 

N-fixers (A/P): 

  • Partridge pea (warm season) 

Dynamic accumulators (A): 

  • Evening primrose, American wild carrot 

 Why October works (Zone 9a) 

  • Warm soil / cool nights: roots build without heat stress. 

  • Cool-season helpers: clovers, cilantro, calendula, vetch, daikon, nasturtium establish now and “power-up” spring growth. 

  • Woody success window: evergreens and fruiting shrubs/trees take off with fall planting and mild winter. 

 

Weekend Challenge (do this in 60–90 minutes) 

  1. Choose one recipe that fits your sun + soil + wind. 

  1. Stage before you dig: lay a mulch ring/triangle; set pots on top to test spacing. 

  1. Plant the anchor first, then shrubs, then herbs; tuck groundcovers last. 

  1. Broadcast clover into open mulch; rake lightly for seed-to-soil contact. 

  1. Add daikon (if using) where soil feels tight. 

  1. Prep frost cloth and a couple of stakes for surprise cold snaps. 

  1. Snap before/after photos for your own log (and to share on the challenge thread). 

 

Budget tiers (scale to your wallet) 

  • Starter: Anchor + one companion layer (e.g., loquat + rosemary). 

  • Plus: Anchor + shrubs + one herb/ground layer. 

  • Deluxe: Full stack with N-fixer and DA roots. 

 

What to observe this month 

  • Pollinator visits (bees on rosemary/calendula). 

  • Strawberry runner set and flower timing. 

  • Clover germination fill-in. 

  • Any wind scorch—does your windward shrub placement need to move/scale? 

  • First light frost date for your microclimate. 

 

Notes 

  • These layouts are templates—shift arcs/rings to match your sun and access. 

  • Keep evergreens on the windward/cold side; put aromatic herbs on the sunny side. 

  • For blueberry islands, think acidic inputs + pine mulch and avoid alkalizing materials. 

  • Annuals here are optional; the perennial anchor/shrubs are the backbone. 


 In Florida, the prevailing wind direction for most of the year is generally from the east to the west. 

Spring (March–May) 

  • Prevailing wind direction: East/Southeast 

  • Influenced by Atlantic breezes, bringing warm, moist air inland. 

Summer (June–August) 

  • Prevailing wind direction: East/Southeast 

  • Dominated by sea breezes and tropical moisture from the Atlantic. 

Fall (September–November) 

  • Prevailing wind direction: Northeast/East 

  • Winds begin shifting as cold fronts occasionally push through. 

Winter (December–February) 

  • Prevailing wind direction: Northwest/North 

  • Driven by continental cold fronts bringing cooler, drier air 

Donald Richardson
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Zone 9 Is the Borderland: Why Central Florida Can Grow “Both Ways” (and How to Use That Power)