October Guild Challenge
Designed for Ocala, Florida planting zone 9 but with a little more research in weather and climate conditions these guilds can be adapted to other areas. Always research what works best in your area.
Each month I will be putting out a new challenge. This challenge is very helpful if you are working with a small budget or want to add to an existing permaculture layout.
Build one perennial-first guild this month
October is prime time in Central Florida’s Zone 9: warm soil + cooler nights = strong root growth for woody perennials. Below are three ready-to-use “guild recipes.” Pick one that matches your sun, moisture, and soil, arrange the layers as shown, and you’ve met the month’s challenge.
Legend (tags you’ll see below)
Florida Native / Florida-Friendly
P = Perennial A = Annual (cool-season where relevant)
N-fixer = adds nitrogen DA = dynamic accumulator (pulls nutrients up)
Orientation cues assume top = cold/wind side (often N/NW)
Quick Site-Reading (use this to pick the right recipe)
Sun: Full (>6h), Part (3–6h), Dappled.
Moisture: Dry, Average, Occasionally wet.
Drainage: Free-draining vs heavy/compacted (add organic matter; use DA roots like daikon).
Wind/frost: Put evergreens on the windward/cold side; avoid low frost pockets.
Soil reaction: If you want blueberries, create/choose an acidic island (pine mulch, bark fines).
Access & wildlife: Leave harvest paths; use small guards where critters are persistent.
Guild Recipe A (Full sun): Loquat Anchor Ring
Best fit: Full sun, average to slightly dry soil, good fall planting window.
Circle size: 10–12 ft diameter (scale up/down to fit).
Anchor (P, Florida-Friendly): Loquat (Eriobotrya japonica, Zone 8b–11). Tough, drought-tolerant once established; flowers late fall/winter, fruit late winter–spring.
Arrangement (top = wind side)
Wind filter (P, Florida Native): Yaupon holly (Ilex vomitoria) 5–6 ft north/NW of trunk (keeps winter winds off).
Shrub layer (P, Florida Native): Beautyberry (Callicarpa americana) on east & west arcs, ~4 ft from trunk.
Herb layer (P): Rosemary (south arc) + Garlic chives in small clumps near path edges.
Groundcover (A in FL): Strawberries (short-day types) 12–18" apart through the ring.
N-fixers (A): Crimson or white clover broadcast into open mulch.
DA root (A): Daikon radish pockets between shrubs to open soil.
Download the Loquat shopping list HERE
Plant List:
Yaupon holly — Florida Native, P [Planting Zone 7a - 9b]- Benefits: wind buffer, wildlife; Use: windward side.
Beautyberry — Florida Native, P [Planting Zone 7 - 11]- Benefits: pollinators/birds, light dapple; Use: E/W arcs.
Rosemary — P [Planting Zone 8 - 10]- Benefits: aromatic pest confusion, culinary; Use: sunny south arc.
Garlic chives — P [Planting Zone 3a - 9b]- Benefits: mild pest pressure, edible; Use: clumps by paths/edges.
Strawberries — A (cool season) [Planting Zone 5a - 9b]- Benefits: living mulch + fruit; Use: fill gaps around ring.
Clover (N-fixer) — A (cool season) [Planting Zone 3a - 10b]- Benefits: N supply, nectar; Use: broadcast under all.
Daikon (DA) — A [Planting Zone 2 - 11]- Benefits: bio-tillage; Use: pockets between shrubs, later chop-and-drop.
Native-only swap ideas:
• Loquat → Native-only anchor alternatives
Loquat isn’t native, so choose one of these native anchors and keep the ring layout.
Anchor options (P):
American persimmon (Diospyros virginiana) [Planting Zone 4 - 9]– tough, delicious fruit
Chickasaw plum (Prunus angustifolia) [Planting Zone 5 - 9]– early bloom, wildlife favorite
Flatwoods plum (Prunus umbellata) [Planting Zone 7a - 10b]– compact form
Red mulberry (Morus rubra) [Planting Zone 4 - 8]– shady-tolerant, heavy wildlife value
Simpson’s stopper (Myrcianthes fragrans) [Planting Zone 9b - 11(pushing the zone)]– evergreen, edible berries
Wind / screen (P):
Yaupon holly (Ilex vomitoria)[Planting Zone 7a - 9b]
Wax myrtle (Morella cerifera)[Planting Zone 7 - 10]
Simpson’s stopper (Myrcianthes fragrans)[Planting Zone 9b - 11(pushing the zone)]
Shrub / pollinator layer (P):
Beautyberry (Callicarpa americana)[Planting Zone 7 - 11]
Firebush (Hamelia patens)[Planting Zone 9 - 11]
Walter’s viburnum (Viburnum obovatum)[Planting Zone 7 - 10]
Aromatic / “herb” layer (P/A):
Spotted beebalm / dotted horsemint (Monarda punctata)[Planting Zone 3a - 9b]
Scarlet sage (Salvia coccinea)[Planting Zone 7 - 11]
Wild yarrow (Achillea millefolium, FL ecotypes)[Planting Zone 3 - 9]
Groundcover (P):
Frogfruit (Phyla nodiflora)[Planting Zone 7 - 11]– living mulch
Sunshine mimosa (Mimosa strigillosa)[Planting Zone 8a - 10b]– warm-season, N-fixing
Twinflower (Dyschoriste oblongifolia)[Planting Zone 4 - 8]– tough, low mat
N-fixers (A/P):
Carolina clover (Trifolium carolinianum)[Planting Zone 7b - 9b]
Buffalo clover (Trifolium reflexum)[Planting Zone 3a - 10b]
Partridge pea (Chamaecrista fasciculata)[Planting Zone 3 - 9]– warm-season
Dynamic accumulators (A):
Evening primrose (Oenothera biennis)[Planting Zone 4a - 9b]
American wild carrot (Daucus pusillus)[Planting Zone 5a - 11]
Guild Recipe B (Part sun / Acidic island): Blueberry Triangle
Best fit: Part–full to full sun; blueberry-friendly acidic “island” (pine needles/bark).
Triangle size: 6–7 ft between bushes.
Anchor (P): Three Blueberries (same variety or compatible pollination partners).
Acid-island recipe (quick): 60–70% pine bark fines + 20–30% coarse peat or leaf mold + 10% sand; top with pine needles.
Arrangement
Anchors (P): One blueberry at the top, two at lower corners; keep a deep pine mulch disk.
Edge annuals (A): Calendula + Cilantro along the sunny lower edge for pollinators and light edible yield.
N-fixer (A): Crimson clover as a narrow outer rim band (12–18" wide). Keep it outside the triangle to avoid root competition at crowns.
Management: Broadcast clover seed now; mow/chop after bloom before seed set to prevent heavy reseeding. Keep alkaline inputs off the island; refresh pine mulch as needed.
Download the Blueberry shopping list HERE
Plant List:
Blueberry (cluster) — P, Florida-Friendly [Planting Zone 3 - 10]- Benefits: fruit, wildlife; Use: anchor triangle, acidic mulch.
Calendula — A [Planting Zone 2 - 11]- Benefits: pollinators, mild pest distraction; Use: outer ring.
Cilantro — A (cool season) [Planting Zone 2a - 11b]- Benefits: beneficial insect draw; Use: interplant at edges.
Crimson clover — A, N-fixer [Planting Zone 6a - 9b]- Easy chop-and-drop.
Native-only swap ideas:
• Blueberry (anchor is already native-derived) [Planting Zone 3 - 10]
Your southern highbush/rabbiteye types are from native FL/Southeast species. If you want strictly native species:
Anchor options (P):
Darrow’s blueberry (Vaccinium darrowii)[Planting Zone 5 - 8]– FL native, evergreen
Rabbiteye blueberry (Vaccinium virgatum)[Planting Zone 7 - 9]– SE native (works in Ocala)
Wind / edge shelter (P):
Yaupon holly [Planting Zone 7a - 9b]
Wax myrtle [Planting Zone 7 - 10]
Simpson’s stopper [Planting Zone 9b - 11(pushing the zone)] (kept outside the acid island)
Pollinator shrubs (P):
Beautyberry [Planting Zone 7 - 11]
Firebush [Planting Zone 9 - 11]
Walter’s viburnum [Planting Zone 7 - 10]
Aromatic / flower layer (P/A):
Spotted beebalm (Monarda punctata)[Planting Zone 3a - 9b]
Scarlet sage (Salvia coccinea)[Planting Zone 7 - 11]
Groundcover (P): (outside the crown zone; avoid raising pH)
Frogfruit (Phyla nodiflora)[Planting Zone 7 - 11]
Sunshine mimosa (Mimosa strigillosa)[Planting Zone 8a - 10b] Use as rim, not at stems.
N-fixers (A/P):
Carolina clover [Planting Zone 7b - 9b]
Buffalo clover [Planting Zone 3a - 10b]– cold-season
Partridge pea [Planting Zone 3 - 9]– warm-season
Dynamic accumulators (A):
Evening primrose (Oenothera biennis)[Planting Zone 4a - 9b]
American wild carrot (Daucus pusillus)[Planting Zone 5a - 11]
Guild Recipe C (Full sun, well-drained): Pomegranate Pocket
Best fit: Full sun, free-draining to slightly dry soils; appreciates fall establishment.
Circle size: ~10 ft diameter.
Anchor (P, Florida-Friendly): Pomegranate (Punica granatum, Zone 8–11).
Arrangement
Windward shrub (P, Florida Native): Simpson’s stopper (Myrcianthes fragrans) just outside the north/NW dripline to slow cold winter wind.
Ground layer (A→spring chop): Clover mix broadcast now; chop-and-drop before summer.
Trap crop/edible (A): Nasturtium at the drip line (aphid magnet; leaves/flowers edible).
Download the Pomegranate shopping list HERE
Plant List:
Simpson’s stopper — Florida Native, P [Planting Zone 9b - 11(pushing the zone)]– Benefits: wind filter, pollinators; Use: windward edge.
Oregano [Planting Zone 4a - 8b]
Thyme — P [Planting Zone 5a - 9b]– Benefits: aromatic pest confusion, culinary; Use: warm south arc.
Clover (N-fixer) — A (cool season) [Planting Zone 3a - 10b]– Benefits: nitrogen, living mulch; Use: broadcast.
Nasturtium — A [Planting Zone 2a - 11b]– Benefits: trap crop, edible; Use: tucked at drip line.
Daikon (DA) — A [Planting Zone 2 - 11]– Benefits: bio-tillage; Use: pockets between shrubs, later chop-and-drop.
Native-only swap ideas:
• Pomegranate → Native-only anchor alternatives
Pomegranate isn’t native; swap in a native fruiting/evergreen anchor and keep the “pocket” layout.
Anchor options (P):
American persimmon (Diospyros virginiana) [Planting Zone 4 - 9]
Chickasaw plum (Prunus angustifolia) [Planting Zone 5 - 9]
Flatwoods plum (P. umbellata) [Planting Zone 7 - 10]
Red mulberry (Morus rubra) [Planting Zone 3 - 8]
Simpson’s stopper (Myrcianthes fragrans) [Planting Zone 9b - 11(pushing the zone)]– Evergreen with edible berries
Wind / screen (P):
Yaupon holly [Planting Zone 7a - 9b]
Wax myrtle [Planting Zone 7 - 10]
Simpson’s stopper [Planting Zone 9b - 11(pushing the zone)] (kept outside the acid island)
Herb / aromatic matrix (P/A):
Spotted beebalm (Monarda punctata) [Planting Zone 4 - 9]
Blue curls/Scarlet calamint (Calamintha coccinea) [Planting Zone 5 - 9]
Scarlet sage (Salvia coccinea) [Planting Zone 7 - 11]
Ground layer (P):
Frogfruit (Phyla nodiflora) [Planting Zone 7 - 11]
Sunshine mimosa (Mimosa strigillosa) [Planting Zone 8a - 10b]
N-fixers (A/P):
Carolina clover [Planting Zone 7b - 9b]
Buffalo clover [Planting Zone 3a - 10b]– cold-season
Partridge pea [Planting Zone 3 - 9]– warm-season
Dynamic accumulators (A):
Evening primrose (Oenothera biennis)[Planting Zone 4a - 9b]
American wild carrot (Daucus pusillus)[Planting Zone 5a - 11]
Why October works (Zone 9a)
Warm soil / cool nights: roots build without heat stress.
Cool-season helpers: clovers, cilantro, calendula, vetch, daikon, nasturtium establish now and “power-up” spring growth.
Woody success window: evergreens and fruiting shrubs/trees take off with fall planting and mild winter.
Weekend Challenge (do this in 60–90 minutes)
Choose one recipe that fits your sun + soil + wind.
Stage before you dig: lay a mulch ring/triangle; set pots on top to test spacing.
Plant the anchor first, then shrubs, then herbs; tuck groundcovers last.
Broadcast clover into open mulch; rake lightly for seed-to-soil contact.
Add daikon (if using) where soil feels tight.
Prep frost cloth and a couple of stakes for surprise cold snaps.
Snap before/after photos for your own log (and to share on the challenge thread).
Budget tiers (scale to your wallet)
Starter: Anchor + one companion layer (e.g., loquat + rosemary).
Plus: Anchor + shrubs + one herb/ground layer.
Deluxe: Full stack with N-fixer and DA roots.
What to observe this month
Pollinator visits (bees on rosemary/calendula).
Strawberry runner set and flower timing.
Clover germination fill-in.
Any wind scorch—does your windward shrub placement need to move/scale?
First light frost date for your microclimate.
Notes
These layouts are templates—shift arcs/rings to match your sun and access.
Keep evergreens on the windward/cold side; put aromatic herbs on the sunny side.
For blueberry islands, think acidic inputs + pine mulch and avoid alkalizing materials.
Annuals here are optional; the perennial anchor/shrubs are the backbone.
In Florida, the prevailing wind direction for most of the year is generally from the east to the west.
Spring (March–May)
Prevailing wind direction: East/Southeast
Influenced by Atlantic breezes, bringing warm, moist air inland.
Summer (June–August)
Prevailing wind direction: East/Southeast
Dominated by sea breezes and tropical moisture from the Atlantic.
Fall (September–November)
Prevailing wind direction: Northeast/East
Winds begin shifting as cold fronts occasionally push through.
Winter (December–February)
Prevailing wind direction: Northwest/North
Driven by continental cold fronts bringing cooler, drier air
