Arbequina – Black Olive (Olea europaea)

Arbequina Olive (Olea europaea ‘Arbequina’) - photo coming soon

Arbequina is a compact, famously productive olive cultivar—one of the go-to choices for gardeners who want the classic Mediterranean look without committing to a massive tree. The leaves are narrow and silvery, the branches develop a sculptural, wind-shaped feel over time, and the fruit can be harvested green or allowed to ripen into deep purple-black “black olives.”

In Florida planting zone 9, olives are a true “site matters” tree. They like sun, airflow, and dry feet. The more you can mimic a bright, open, well-drained location, the happier an olive will be. Humidity and prolonged leaf wetness can increase disease pressure, so spacing, pruning, and morning sun are your best friends.

Arbequina is often described as more self-fertile than many olives, but yields commonly improve when another compatible olive is nearby (as a pollinizer). If you’re planting for fruit, think in pairs—and plan for patient, slow success.

Disclaimer

Any reference to medicinal or culinary use of plants or plant parts should in no way be considered an endorsement by The Ocala Food Forest or its staff. Research is crucial in safe and proper consumption or experimentational use of any plant.

Plant Information

Scientific Name:Olea europaea ‘Arbequina’
Family Name:Oleaceae (Olive family)
Common Name(s):Arbequina Olive, Olive Tree (“black olive” refers to ripe fruit)
Size:Commonly 10–20 ft tall and wide; can be maintained 6–10 ft with pruning (container-friendly when young)
Plant Type:Evergreen fruit tree (perennial)
Origin/Geographic Distribution:Mediterranean-region species; Arbequina is a cultivated Spanish selection used for oil and table olives
Native to:Mediterranean Basin (species origin); cultivar is a domesticated selection
Planted range in the USA:Commonly grown in California and the Southwest; also trialed in warm-summer, mild-winter regions with good drainage and airflow
Conservation Status:Not applicable (cultivated tree)
Note: In humid climates, olives may require extra attention to spacing, pruning for airflow, and disease monitoring. Fruit set can vary by winter chill, spring weather, and pollinizer presence.

Cultivation

Planting:Plant in spring after the last hard cold risk; choose a sunny, open site so foliage dries quickly after rain
Sun Exposure:Full sun (best flowering and fruiting)
Soil Type:Well-drained soil is critical (sandy loam/loam ideal); avoid low spots and clay that stays wet
Soil pH:About 6.0 to 8.0 (tolerant of slightly acidic to alkaline soils)
Water Requirements:Low to moderate once established; water deeply during establishment and extended drought—avoid frequent shallow watering
Fertilizer Requirements: Low to moderate; compost and a light, balanced feed in spring is usually enough. Avoid heavy nitrogen (too much leaf growth can reduce flowering).
Pruning Requirements:Prune to an open canopy for airflow; remove crossing branches and interior congestion (late winter/early spring is common)
Growth Rate:Medium; commonly 1–2 ft per year once established (faster with irrigation and fertility)
Companion Planting:Best companions keep weeds down, support beneficial insects, and do not raise humidity at the trunk—use a clean mulch ring at the base
Tip: Olives hate “wet feet.” If your site holds water after rain, plant on a mound or berm and prioritize drainage over everything else.

Tolerance and Hardiness

Drought Tolerance:High once established; consistent moisture improves young growth and fruit sizing
Frost Tolerance:Moderate; mature trees can often tolerate to about 15°F (-9°C) (young trees are more sensitive)
Heat Tolerance:Excellent; can often handle up to about 110°F (43°C) with adequate soil moisture
Wind Tolerance:Moderate to high; wind helps reduce leaf wetness, but extreme wind can stress young trees
Salt Tolerance:Moderate; more tolerant than many fruit trees, but avoid direct salt spray and salty irrigation water
USDA Plant Hardiness Zones:Commonly 8–10 (sometimes into 11 in suitable microclimates)

Flower and Fruit Information

Fruit Type:Drupe (olive) with a single pit
Harvest Time:Typically late summer through fall. For “black olives,” harvest when fruit turns purple-black and softens slightly; for oil, many harvest when fruit is green to turning (color-change stage)
Fruit Description:Small to medium fruit; mild, buttery flavor profile is common in Arbequina oils (table olives must be cured—raw olives are extremely bitter)
Edible Plant:Yes (fruit), but olives require curing or pressing (do not eat raw off the tree)
Edible Parts:Fruit flesh (after curing); oil (pressed from fruit)
Medicinal:Traditional uses exist for olive leaf and oil; research carefully and avoid treating this as medical guidance
Flower Color:Creamy-white
Flower Shape:Small, 4-petaled flowers in clusters (panicles)
Fragrance:Light, sweet fragrance (often subtle)
Flower Bloom Time:April–May (varies by spring warmth)
Bloom Duration:Short—typically 1–3 weeks per bloom flush
Pollination:
Self or Other?
Primarily wind-pollinated. Arbequina is often partially self-fertile, but yields commonly improve with a compatible pollinizer (another olive cultivar nearby)
Harvest readiness tip: fruit that releases easily with a gentle twist is generally ready. For oil, earlier harvest gives greener flavors; later harvest gives milder, riper flavors.

Wildlife

Attracts:Beneficial insects may shelter in the canopy; ripe fruit can attract birds if left to fully color on the tree
Pollinators:Mostly wind-pollinated (insects may visit flowers but are not the primary pollinators)
Problematic Pest: Scale insects, aphids, mites, and whiteflies can occur; humid conditions can increase pest/disease pressure.
Tip: Good airflow is “preventative pest control” for olives—open structure, sun penetration, and dry foliage reduce problems.

Health and Safety

Toxic:Generally considered non-toxic
Poisonous Parts of Plant:None commonly recognized as poisonous; raw olives are extremely bitter and not considered edible without curing
Toxic to Humans:Not typically toxic; olive pits are a choking hazard (especially for children)
Toxic to Animals:Not typically toxic; prevent pets from eating large amounts of fallen fruit/pits (digestive upset or choking risk)
Plant Diseases to be aware of:Peacock spot (leaf spot), anthracnose/fruit rots, sooty mold (often linked to sap-sucking insects), and root rot in poorly drained soils

Companion Planting

For Arbequina olive (Olea europaea ‘Arbequina’), the best companions are drought-tolerant, sun-loving plants that keep soil covered and support beneficial insects—without trapping humidity around the trunk. Keep a clean mulch ring at the base, then build your guild out near the dripline.

Florida Native: Sunshine Mimosa (Mimosa strigillosa)

Zone Range: 8–11

Benefits: Low-growing nitrogen-fixer; living mulch that suppresses weeds and feeds soil life.

Use: Let it spread around the dripline (not touching the trunk) to build soil while staying low.

Florida Native: Blanket Flower (Gaillardia pulchella)

Zone Range: 8–11

Benefits: Heavy pollinator support; thrives in sun and leaner soils with good drainage.

Use: Plant on the sunny edge of the olive’s zone to pull in beneficial insects.

Florida Native: Pink Muhly Grass (Muhlenbergia capillaris)

Zone Range: 6–11

Benefits: Tough, drought-tolerant structure plant; helps break wind and adds texture without heavy shade.

Use: Plant as a perimeter clump to define the planting and reduce wind stress on young trees.

Florida Friendly: Rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus)

Zone Range: 8–11

Benefits: Drought-tolerant aromatic herb; supports beneficial insects and stays relatively “dry” around foliage.

Use: Plant in full sun on the driest side of the olive to keep airflow high and maintenance low.

Florida Friendly: Yarrow (Achillea millefolium)

Zone Range: 3–9

Benefits: Attracts predatory insects; adds a light, airy understory that doesn’t smother the trunk zone.

Use: Tuck into the guild edge to boost beneficial insect presence during bloom.

Florida Friendly: Lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus)

Zone Range: 9–11

Benefits: Clumping border plant that supplies mulch material and helps define the bed.

Use: Plant as a border near the dripline; harvest regularly so it stays tidy and doesn’t crowd.

Implementation Tips
Olives do best when their leaves dry quickly after rain: keep spacing generous, prune for airflow, and avoid dense, thirsty groundcovers right against the trunk. Use a wide mulch ring at the base, and place companion plants around the dripline where they support soil life without increasing humidity.

Sources & References

Reference list used for general horticultural guidance and Florida-relevant best practices (not medical advice):

Note: Olive fruit set and disease pressure vary widely by microclimate (humidity, airflow, leaf wetness duration), winter chill, and pollinizer presence. For Florida, local UF/IFAS guidance and your own site observations should be treated as the primary reference.